Miss Moneypenny

Board & Train

Private board & train stays are able to take advantage of one (1) $50.00 in-your-home follow up session ($25.00 savings off regular priced in-home, 60 minutes). You are able to redeem one follow up session at the discounted rate per private board & train stay your dog books. This will allow you to review skills from the private board & train and address any questions and work the dog on the skills completed.

***If you do not end up doing a follow up session in your home it may be a good idea for you to video some of the skills you work on and send to me so I can see your timing, dog's behavior etc. It is easiest for me to see what is happening so I can see the dog's posture. It would also be great to get a video of the dog/cat interaction beginning with well before the interaction begins, to how it is broken up.

  • Leash pulling
  • Recall inside/redirection from the cat
  • Focus
  • Basic obedience


  • work sits and downs for duration
  • think about the cat plan (last paragraph in observations)
  • be consistent loose leash walking to stop the pulling
  • be generous in your recall and give rewards where rewards are due. even if you do not have food on your body, job with her over to the treat container so she starts learning you have access to food and will reward for good behavior
  • work on luring into heel and practicing sits and downs in heel position


MP is a dog who is generally always "on." Her energy level is very high. It is important in daily life, and when working with her (training sessions) to keep your energy levels more balanced or lower. If we work at too high of a level her behaviors will become even more frantic as she is still learning self control. Some dogs who are shy, or less ambitious, it takes the human to try to excite the dog to get it to want to work. This is not the case for her. She is also very sensitive as well, so in new environments she may be less comfortable (exhibiting less of an "on" behavior) and we would need to let her check things out so she knows that she is safe and all is OK before starting a training session. 

This is both good and bad to have a dog that wants to work as much as she does. Sometimes the dog is smarter than the human. She also wants the food motivator so bad she guesses so quickly on a behavior even if it has nothing to do with what we are training or asking. This is OK. When teaching a behavior, however, timing needs to be correct, or she will become frustrated and confused. She needs clear communication. It would be a wise idea to think about what you are setting a training session aside for, and make sure to stick to that criteria. I would keep sessions very short, and work more sessions throughout the day since she can handle the workload. 

While she has a great sit and a great down, she does not have the behaviors for duration since it is hard for her to sit still. Just working the basics (a sit or a down) and reinforcing multiple times before releasing her will start to build the duration she stays down for or sits for. When she becomes too frantic (she acts like she always wants to be chased), I simply redirect her to her crate to calm down. She is perfectly crate trained, and sometimes a small break can go a long way. 

While I have never seeing her in action with the cat, it would be my guess if you can A) redirect to her crate as soon as she starts stalking the cat B) keep separated so you are not continuously reinforcing this behavior until she can show self control C) call her off from the cat if her recall is strong enough ...generously reward every single time D) have her stay in her bed or be in a relaxing state where she does not feel the need to go after the cat ....rewarding for staying in her bed or keeping position. This will mean she is less impulsive and it is more rewarding than going after the cat. Each option needs t be built so she WANTS to do it. 

i am keeping the session fairly silent as i do not want the tone in my voice to influence her behaviors. 

:08 working on luring in to heel but she does not like to be real close to legs (probably because she is not wanting to be stepped on and it has happened before)

:17 she defaults to down while i am trying to lure her. i do not correct at all, I just keep going. it will be up to her to start telling the difference as to what drill we are doing. 

:28 i shift myself (normally i do not do this) but i just want her to be less sensitive of taking food next to my knee

:40 i am trying to turn my hand to force her to shift her weight to become parallel to me so i can brain storm the best way for her to get into heel. right now i would just work on feeding her close to your knee.

we then go in to working the sits and downs in the heel position. 

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  • Be very conscious that you are not reinforcing grabbing MP when she is trying to get away by chasing or intimidating her. She enjoys being chased and likes to get in play bow position. I would personally ignore this behavior inside, and if it continued I would redirect to the crate. She does the same thing outside when it is time to come in so it is important to generously reward. Collar grabs will be helpful. 

Because she also has a tendency to lay down in submission, I would ignore/back up or ask her to come (and reward) and ask her to sit. It is not good to intimidate her just to try to grab her. 

Every time won't be perfect but I would certainly work to make sure she is not fearful when you approach or reach for her. 

We want to build her confidence always!!


  • Work to be consistent amongst all family members, whoever leashes and walks MP that the PULLING is NOT reinforced by moving in the direction she pulls. Work on setting up session where you set out just to be on leash and STOP or change directions each time pulling take place. By the end of a 45 minute session you should see major improvements not only because your dog is getting worn out, but because they are sick of stopping so often (not fun for a dog)

Recall. Focus. Value Building. 

  • If you want your dog's attention, you need to be valuable. Your dog should WANT to interact with you because it is rewarding and fun. If you want your dog's focus, you need to teach that focus pays off! In order to get a recall, you need both of these. At the same time, you, as a human being, should be pleasant. If you are unhappy, angry or frustrated you are not fun to work with and you should avoid working with your dog in this state of mind (or stop a lesson if you are getting this way)
  • All of these dogs in the video are here for training. A lot of them are very young. You can see we are in a CONFINED (and familiar) area, off leash. They have a choice to sniff, pee on stuff, play with each other, or interact with me. However I am rarely saying anything but I am rewarding when they interact or when I recall and they listen. I am letting them do what they want but am value building as they choose ME! I am rewarding from focus. 
  • You should be able to identify which dog's have a foundation/value for focusing. Which are more food motivated, which are more distracted, etc. In the beginning I DO want to reward generously and eventually food moves off my body, but regardless of a FOOD motivator I still remain fun and rewarding. 


Take your dog to a confined and familiar area (or leash) and allow your dog to sniff and do what it wants, but REWARD (4 types of rewards) when your dog chooses you. DO NOT FORCE YOUR DOG'S ATTENTION!!!!

Reflection: Progress & Goal Setting

  • Where do you feel your dog is now compared to where you would like it to be?
    • Have you taken into account behaviors that have been created/allowed vs. behaviors you have actively and consistently worked on? Example: leash pulling. Do every time you go out on leash are you consistent to not allow the dog to pull, or do you allow the dog to pull to get it where it wants to go, reinforcing this behavior? How long has your dog been getting away with behaviors you do not like? Have you done anything to change those behaviors?
  • Do you feel the time, energy, and consistency you are putting in on a regular basis lines up with your long term goals?
    • What is a realistic amount of time per day or per week that you are willing and able to set aside to set up specific training sessions with your dog? Do you have 5 minutes per day to choose a skill? Can you only commit to a few times per week?
  • Do you have a clear understanding and specific plan for your short term goals leading to your end behaviors


Board & Train: Friday, November 10th-Monday, November 13th

Daily Behaviors

Some of the daily behaviors Moneypenny exhibits which you spoke about as being a bit of an annoyance at home I have observed and will offer suggestions of redirection when she is at home. This should be done on a regular basis. This behavior I refer to as having an on/off switch - however generally the owner/training wants to be the one to turn the switch on (opposed to the dog just turning it up inside when we are not looking for that)

  • Ignore the behavior entirely. If she play bows (butt in air, tail wagging, perhaps a bark) you need to not make eye contact and move away from her. I would not address this behavior. This behavior happens mostly when she is released from her crate with me and we go outside. However, I want her to go to the bathroom right away, not learn that I am going to interact with her. She keeps it up for perhaps 20-30 seconds and I just continue to walk away from her (not making eye contact or speaking to her) until she potties, which is when I tell her what a good girl she is. 
  • She sometimes keeps restarts the behavior when we come back inside
    • You have options on how you would like to handle the situation
    • 1. I first try to ignore a dog offering "wild" behaviors I do not like
    • 2. I try to redirect the behavior if it continues. This mean perhaps offering a treat from your hand or placed on the floor to redirect her current state of mind. If you have bully sticks, toys, or something she really likes you can always redirect with that so she takes it and is then interacting with that
    • 3. I would call her and offer a generous reward for driving into her crate. I would have her stay in her crate for 2-5 minutes or perhaps 2 minutes to a few hours. A lot of people are turned away by this option because they have an emotional breakdown feeling bad for the dog being crated while they are home. In MP's case, I would highly suggest incremental crating even without needing to redirect her - but just to break anxious behaviors.
  • If you find that you are going after her (which I would not suggest because she loves the chase game) I would start doing collar grabs. Collar grabs will change her mind set of and hand coming down towards her from wanting to run away to understanding it is rewarding. If she is naked in the house, this obviously won't work. 

Loose Leash Walking

This is her first time out for her walking session. She is confused, pulling, and wants to sniff. She is doing what she has learned...pulling gets her to where she wants to go.

In a short amount of time she made it from 2-3ft to 20ft+. Again...consistency is key. 

Walking Drill: 

  • Replace lengthy walks with quality walking drills
  • Utilize your 15, 20, 30+ minute walk time for walking drills so you do not continue to reinforce the pulling behavior. 
  • Figure out what areas (beginning, middle, end) you will utilize for your designated potty/sniffing areas. Give her a certain amount of time to utilize this area and do not allow her to pull you to that area
  • Remember that any pulling behavior you allow is reinforcing that behavior (pulling to great a person, dog, sniff, potty, etc)
  • If you walk the same path, it should not be as necessary to sniff as it will be when you go into new territory. You may need to reinforce and remind her of the "no pull" simply by doing a quick drill of changing direction
  • The more this is done (it seems to work for her) the faster she will learn how to walk on a loose leash
  • No need to verbally correct her or choke or yank her. Be kind. 

Board & Train: Monday, October 30th - Monday, November 6th

Private board & train stays are able to take advantage of one (1) $50.00 in-your-home follow up session ($25.00 savings off regular priced in-home, 60 minutes). You are able to redeem one follow up session at the discounted rate per private board & train stay your dog books. This will allow you to review skills from the private board & train and address any questions and work the dog on the skills completed.


Please also feel free to check out the DOG TRAINING tab to utilize instructional videos. The page is a work in progress and more will be added.

  • The foundation to your training should be engagement and relationship.
  • Keep your expectations fair and realistic.
  • Unpredictability is probably the worst trait a dog owner can possess.
  • If you expect something, then expect it every time you ask for it.
  • Think about treats in terms of ‘units of a reward’ for effort.
  • Remember repetition, NOT duration. Five 1-minutes sessions can be better than one 5-minute session.
  • Mark for action, feed for position.
  • Name a perfect behavior, not an imperfect behavior. Get the quality you want before you tell the dog what it is called.
  • Work on generalization to work on getting the behavior to happen in a variety of environments and situations.
  • The challenge level should always be that in which your dog can succeed.

Ask your dog what they are capable of doing. Over-facing our dogs by putting demands on them that they cannot possibly meet will not only mean we make no progress towards our training goals, but it will erode a dog’s confidence and enjoyment of working with us.

Perfection is not a permanent condition. The more criteria, the more maintenance.  

Four Types of Rewards

  1. Food (highly encouraged this is taught from a young age to make training easier)
  2. Toy play (toy play is great so you do not always have to use food)
  3. Verbal praise
  4. Physical Praise (petting)

Hierarchy of Rewards: Find out the minimal amount your dog will work for. You do not want to cook steak every time you want your dog to do something. If they will work for their kibble, let kibble be the reward (you can feed meals through training)

My dog Settler's favorite thing in the world is a tennis ball. It is at the top of list in terms of a reward. However, I need to think about what I am training as well as my motivator. I do not want to be working on "calm" behaviors and rewarding with a tennis ball which stimulates him where he cannot be calm. I also need to think about the position I need to be in and if my reward allows me to feed my dog in the position (example teaching a sit and then throwing the ball for sitting is not necessarily marking the correct behavior).

My dog Settler's favorite thing in the world is a tennis ball. It is at the top of list in terms of a reward. However, I need to think about what I am training as well as my motivator. I do not want to be working on "calm" behaviors and rewarding with a tennis ball which stimulates him where he cannot be calm. I also need to think about the position I need to be in and if my reward allows me to feed my dog in the position (example teaching a sit and then throwing the ball for sitting is not necessarily marking the correct behavior).

Training treats (or kibble) should be small and easy to eat. You do not want your dog crunching on a milk bone while you are trying to perform repetitions of a drill.   Once your dog is performing something easily and consistently it is not necessary to reward every time. Perhaps physical or verbal praise is enough. However, if your dog performs something extremely fast or well, a food reward may be nice. You want to get the food off your body as fast as possible so the dog learns you have access to food - not that they will only do something WHEN you have food. 

Training treats (or kibble) should be small and easy to eat. You do not want your dog crunching on a milk bone while you are trying to perform repetitions of a drill. 

Once your dog is performing something easily and consistently it is not necessary to reward every time. Perhaps physical or verbal praise is enough. However, if your dog performs something extremely fast or well, a food reward may be nice. You want to get the food off your body as fast as possible so the dog learns you have access to food - not that they will only do something WHEN you have food. 

  • Incrementally Crating
  • Marker word or use of a clicker
  • Focus & Engagement
  • Sit/Down
  • Stay
  • Release cue "okay" meaning the dog is free to move
  • Sending to bed: shaping (also a placemat for "stay)
  • Loose leash walking
  • Recall
  • Jumping
  • Play biting
  • Barking

3 D’s: Distance, Distraction, Duration (added in to all exercises to increase criteria as your training progresses!) Before we can add in these three elements, make sure we can achieve consistent behaviors indoors or in a low-distraction environment.

Crate Training / Housebreaking / Incrementally Crating

  • Start crating at night (opposed to sleeping in bed with you is my STRONG recommendation), when you leave the house, and most importantly incrementally when you are physically present. This will help build confidence and also ensuring she is able to function without you. In the long run it will make training easier as the dog won't be as "needy" or attached

  • She is slightly anxious when crated while I am physically present/other dogs out and about which tells me she still is needing to learn to relax even if she is not right with a human or another dog (mostly just human). I will work to build duration with her so she has an understanding of being able to function without being right next to me
  • I noticed if I walk outside and leave her behind (to get another dog, or another dog is getting picked up) she does get quite anxious. She seems to not want to be "left behind" so we will also tackle this during the week to ensure she can happily function even if I walk away without her

I have included two sample videos I created with my dog Settler. Ignore the videos addressing the dogs the video was originally made for (Sage & Amy). They both provide samples from the starting stage through the end result of where to begin (with your dog on leash) to having no leash and using the drill as a warm-up. Small drills like this will go a LONG WAY. If you are consistent in sending your dog to her crate and make it rewarding it will be a great confidence builder and a fun place for her (opposed to just going in when you leave the house). 
I would also be very consistent in waiting for a sit to be released EVERY SINGLE TIME so there is the expectation that Money needs to wait for you to give her a cue. This will increase focus on you. 

Potty Training: Tips using the crate to assist

  • When the dog is let out of the crate, going outside to potty is the first step (this is critical) as you are making sure she understands when it is appropriate to go to the bathroom (not inside)
  • If the dog DOES NOT potty, the dog should be put back into the crate
  • The dog earns time out (it is a reward) by going to the bathroom outside
  • The only time the dog should be let out of the crate is when they are silent; so be sure to monitor so if the dog is sleeping you catch them before waking to let them out to potty

Day 1: heavily focused on observing her behaviors as she settled in, interacting with her without training expectations, observing dog on dog interactions, watching her in home and what she chooses to do,, working in and out of the crate, focusing on a consistent potty schedule. I did not experience any play biting, jumping, or barking. However, this is generally something a dog may not begin until they get more comfortable in a new environment. 

***Still after eight days she has been incrementally crated (while I am home) and the only time she fusses is when I step out of the door temporarily to grab another dog. She whines and barks, but she just needs to work through this. I do at times cover the crate completely, but I do not say anything negative to her...just simply ignoring the behavior. This is something I would suggest continuing at home: incrementally crating while you are home, to help break this stressor she has.

Marker Word = "YES" (or using a clicker)

  • Should be implemented immediately
  • "YES" is followed by a reward so you should be able to start communicating to your dog when they are doing something correctly

Skill: Marker Word = YES! (or a clicker)
Exercise: Name Game

Criteria: Call your dog’s name, when they look mark YES and reward
Progression: Offered focus (call if needed) but reward for paying attention
*Remember you do not ALWAYS need to use food - think about other types of rewards

Focus & Engagement

  1. Start in an environment where your dog will succeed (you cannot go somewhere with a million distractions and valueable things and expect the same behavior as when you are inside in a familiar environment).
  2. I have started inside where there are minimal distractions
  3. Yes, she loves food and focuses when I have food so very quickly I will want her to understand regardless of food being on my body...I HAVE ACCESS TO FOOD. Even more so, I want her to know I am valuable even without food because I am fun to interact with. 
  4. I want her to make the choice to interact with me opposed to choosing other things to do, especially as we get outside

The video above is a great warm-up drill I would do before any active training session. 

We are inside, low distractions and just working on simple behaviors she can succeed at - sits and downs - which are also confidence builders because she "wins" every time. We all know how good it feels to be right at something, or do something correctly. Same for a dog. 


Learning how to utilize toys can be extremely valuable in training. You do not ONLY want your dog to do things when you have food. Teaching how much fun you are through the use of toys is a great way to engage with your dog. Figuring out what THEY like by what they choose to interact with is a great way to win them over!

Sample Training Session: What Can You Do At Home?

  1. Set 10 minutes or less aside during your day. Multiple short sessions are key and are more realistic than setting hours at a time aside. Generally for my two dogs I may work for 30 minutes or less at a time, sometimes less than five depending on what I am training and what my dog's mental state is. Training is exhausting! The more sessions you can do, the better. Even when I am not training...I am training. I have expectations and I stick with them. 
  2. Start with warm up crate games. Sending your dog to the crate, and releasing out.
  3. Move into sits and downs - sometimes for food, sometimes for praise. Have the food off your body and expect eye contact! 
  4. Once these behaviors are strong, move to an outdoor environment, or garage, where there may be more distractions. 
  5. These is a great focus and engagement session and will build the value as you keep doing it to keep your dog's attention

A dog sees the world through its nose. They sniff to explore their environment to see what is around. It is OK! I want her to be comfortable and check things out, but realize when she does return to me (by CHOICE) that I am valuable and rewarding. When I call her, I am reinforcing her to come back because I will "pay" for it. It does not ALWAYS have to be food. Eventually praise and toy play should be more than enough. Even grabbing a stick or branch can be enough of a reward because it is ENGAGEMENT.

I do not want to force her or tug her but let her figure out how much fun I am (and eventually the long line will come off and she will have free roam of the entire space). This will translate to everything you do because you are working on YOUR relationship with her. I do believe a good relationship is the foundation to training. Let a dog think for itself. They want to learn and learning should be fun! ...for both of you!

Sits & Downs

  • Keep in mind that focus exercises and simple skills such as sit and down will tire out your pup!
  • Start your session with the MARKER WORD drill (name game) to get your dog's attention

Skill: Sits/Downs
Exercise: Sits/Downs

Criteria: Drills are done In front
Progression: Variation of front and heel position (on your side). You also will want to transition from being on the floor with your dog, to up on your knees, to partially bent over, to standing up right. You can also then start doing these particular drills in more challenging environments. Adding in distance, distraction, and duration.
            Do you need a treat? Do you need a hand signal? Brainstorm with your training sessions so if something is not working, you can stop and figure it out...but not at your dog's expense


  • Thinking about the scenario you are asking your dog to stay or wait in
  • Generally the word stay means "stay put" I am returning back to you
  • The word wait means I will be releasing you (perhaps from a distance)

Skill: Stay
Exercise: Small movements and encouraging the dog to hold position (not to move)

Criteria: Dog does not release itself
Progression: Testing where you can go and for how long the dog will stay for.

Because she has a nice sit/down I did not focus too much on this behavior. I would recommend trying to increase duration for each behavior by asking for the behavior and reinforcing quickly (so she holds position) and then releasing with OK and trying it again. A couple minutes per day will go a long way and you can quickly also start adding in distractions (new environments and things that may grab her attention) and the distance you get from her (which will also turn into a stay - which we did not work on)

Release Cue = "OKAY"

  • How does your dog know they are free to move? Whether it is releasing from a stay, exiting out a door (including the crate door) you should have a cue that communicates to your dog it is OK to "break!"
  • Start using the word "OKAY" to allow releasing of your dog
  • Utilize the crate training videos above to see how the word is utilized in crate games

Sending to Bed: Shaping

Because MP likes to work so much and likes to think, I want to put her to the test to allow her something different and fun! 

Shaping, or as it's formally known, “shaping by successive approximations,” simply means breaking down a behavior into tiny increments, and reinforcing the dog at each incremental step until you've achieved the full behavior. 

  1. Looking at the bed
  2. Touching the bed
  3. 1 paw on the bed
  4. 2 paws on the bed
  5. 3 paws on the bed
  6. 4 paws on the bed
  7. Sitting on the bed
  8. Downing on the bed
  9. Adding in distance, distraction, duration

This is a great drill to use when company comes over, to redirect from barking, to utilize while you are eating dinner, etc. It is a great way to get the dog driving away from you - as there is now value for being away from you and driving elsewhere. It is the same concept as driving to the crate minus the boundaries that a crate provides (you can shut the door so your dog stays). 

You are also using your sit and down and as you add in duration your dog has a physical placemat for staying and being released. 

Day 2: MP has a strong desire to learn and work very hard. She is a pleasure to work with! She seems to be on a consistent potty schedule (pooping in the AM and PM only, peeing only a few times throughout the day. She is being incrementally crated and when she is let out of the crate (holds her wait position and is released) goes right outside to the bathroom. She generally will pee. If so, it is her "ticket" out to roam - if not she goes back to her crate for a few more minutes and we try to potty in a few. Water is monitored, especially if she has been running around with other dogs. Her socialization skills have gotten better being around other dogs as at first she seems a bit fearful and unsure of how to interact. She seems to catch on quickly so there are a few things I have added to her training regimen that I think you will find beneficial. She will jump on me in the morning which I will start redirection for tomorrow morning by changing her mindset when she is let out of her crate. She will need to start learning to control her impulses and sit and wait if she wants anything (including praise). She did bark out of fear this morning (hearing the donkeys) and as her engagement increases with me I should be able to call her back to reward her for stopping barking. 

Loose Leash Walking

MP loves to sniff and it would be my recommendation that you go for quality walks over quantity. I would try to keep her on leash and perhaps just walk down the driveway or going 10-20ft. If she pulls I would stop or go the other direction. I would have a designated potty spot as well as a "sniffing square" since that is very rewarding for her. The less you let her sniff the better success you will have on a walk. She sniffs and pulls where she wants to sniff and that is what we want to break. 


One thing I also noticed is sometimes she gets in "chase mode." She offers a play bow and starts getting very energetic. While she is absolutely still a puppy, I would definitely make it worth her while to "come" when she is called. I would try to ignore the "zoomie" behaviors and when she is calm reinforce that you like what she is doing. 


  • Managing jumping can be done in many ways depending on what the jumping is happening and what is rewarding it
  • If a dog jumps and is pet, touched, or talked to...that may be rewarding
  • BE CONSISTENT and do not allow the dog to jump. If you teach a cue, or invite the dog, that is a different scenario, but for now I would set the standard so the dog does not become confused

Skill: NOT Jumping

  1. Reinforce the behaviors you do like and ignore what you don't
  2. Don't set your dog up to fail
  3. If your dog is jumping on you, you can choose to completely ignore
  4. You can choose to redirect by tossing treats away from you on the floor (value become away from you and down, not up)
  5. You can manage by giving your dog something to occupy itself with and making the dog sit and wait (giving a chew or a toy)
  6. You can redirect your dog to its crate to relax for a few minutes
  7. You can manage by having your dog on a leash
  8. Your dog should not be pet or greeted (that is a reward) if they are pulling or jumping

I have had a lot of success with just ignoring the jumping behavior and altering the pattern in which things happen. When she is released from her crate int he morning (primarily the time she jumps on me as we go outside and get outside) I not release and completely ignore walking directly to the door. I let her out first and close the door (I do not go with her). I then let other dogs outside and will then go outside and ignore all of the dogs until they potty. Not addressing her until she is in a calmer state of mind seems to change her thoughts on needing to jump. If you have high energy, she has high energy. I have toned it down since she is so motivated as I do not need to be at that same level or she self-reinforces jumping. Day 3 and 4 I have done this and there has been no jumping, which to me is progress. It should not take a dog too long to learn something as long as it is consistent every time. 

Play Biting/Mouthing

  • It is normal for a puppy to play bite or mouth
  • Make sure they have enough to chew on
  • Be consistent. If you are playing with your dog and allowing them to play bite, and all of a sudden they get you to hard...you really cannot be upset

Skill: Stopping play biting
Exercise: Redirecting, ignoring

  • If the puppy is play biting, stop what is happening. Ignore the dog and move on to something else. Do not wait for it to continue
  • Trade the dog for a toy, chew, food...or something it can chew on
  • Redirect the dog to the crate to take a break

I did not experience any play biting or mouthing with her. This is a behavior I would again ignore and not set her up to feel that she needs to exhibit this behavior. 


I did not experience barking besides in the crate when I went out the door (just quickly). Particularly for barking I like to use redirection where you call the dog's name and they come to you, or check-in. There is no use to scold as generally it becomes a fear-based tactic - although sometimes I will tell a dog to knock it off. In her case I think the sending to the bed (once greater distance is achieved) would be a great way to redirect.