So, You Think You Want TWO?!

So you have decided on pulling the trigger for one puppy…so all of a sudden the idea pops into your head to get a second. I mean, after all, if you are going through all the trouble of housebreaking and training one…you might as well get a second. WRONG!

It is important to know that knowledgeable and reputable breeders will highly discourage and may not even allow picking two pups from the same litter — or getting a second puppy within a certain time period of the first. However, it does not seem all that uncommon for the average pet owner to somehow get talked into taking two home. My advice: don’t do it. This is one of the major problems with purchasing a puppy from a breeder who just does not hold the knowledge or credentials they need when it comes to the developmental stages of puppies and dogs.

Littermate Syndrome

Littermate Syndrome is also known as Sibling Aggression or Littermate Aggression. In a nutshell, it refers to a whole list of behavioral challenges that tend to present when siblings or two dogs of similar ages are raised in the same household beyond the normal 8 to 10 weeks of age. Whether you get two puppies or not, you should educate yourself with the term littermate syndrome. Two puppies from the same litter living together may develop such a strong bond to each other that it interferes with their ability to interact in a normal manner with other people, other dogs, or any situation where they are not together. And my experience: this is 100% spot on. It always seems you have the introvert that never reaches its true potential, and the extrovert who overshadows the other dog — regardless of how you look at it, the developmental stages are disturbed.

Unless someone is a professional trainer (or along the lines) and has vast amounts of knowledge about dog behavior, I would be against bringing home two puppies around the same age, let alone two from the same litter. To be honest, I do not even like when someone suggests “getting a second dog for their first dog.” A dog should be something you get for yourself or your family — and everyone should be in agreement so the dog has the best chance of success. Adding a second always runs the risk of changing the dynamic and things are not always what one assumes they will be.

In addition to two puppies being double the trouble of expenses, training, and household management, puppies’ brains continue developing until they hit sexual maturity (and even a bit beyond that), and there’s some convincing research that bringing two puppies home at the same time prevents one, or both, of the puppies from reaching his or her full potential.

When a guide dog organization did an experiment and placed two capable puppies in the same raiser household they found it seemed to always cause at least one puppy to become temporarily unsuitable for work — even though both were strong candidates to begin with.

When two puppies are placed together, they learn to rely on each other. One of the puppies always becomes shy, even when both puppies started off as bold and outgoing. This is a HUGE problem, since it means that the shy puppy never reaches his or her potential.

Other abhorrent and heart-breaking effects of Littermate Syndrome:

  • The shy puppy becomes increasingly withdrawn and introverted and never reaches potential

  • Often even the “bold” puppy turns out to be quite nervous and uncertain when separated

  • The puppies often become incredibly co-dependent, exhibiting high anxiety when separated

  • They often fail to bond to their human family as strongly as they otherwise would, if at all.

  • At social maturity, these puppies may begin fighting with one another, often quite severely.

Even non-sibling puppies can exhibit Littermate Syndrome when placed together. 

Professional trainers recommend against getting two puppies within six months of one another, because the risks are just too high. This doesn’t even take into account the other practical considerations, such as the increased costs of vet care, food, supplies, and training; the extra work of training and caring for two dogs; or the time requirements of two active puppies.

Can littermate syndrome be prevented? 

Theoretically, yes, however it’s so difficult as to be nearly impossible in practice.

At a bare minimum, the two puppies would need to be crated and cared for separately, including separate walks, training classes, and playtime with their owners. The puppies need to have more one-on-one time with their new owners than they have with each other, effectively doubling the work and negating any of the possible benefits (i.e. companionship) that they were adopted together for in the first place.

Bottom Line: we absolutely know that puppies do best when brought home separately. If you want multiple dogs, consider purchasing or adopting adult dogs who are already done developing instead.

Source credit: https://k9behavioralservices.com/littermate-syndrome/

Before Getting a New Puppy

Getting a new puppy or dog is an exciting adventure — but it can also be overwhelming and stressful. It is important to think things through BEFORE making the commitment to bring a new family member home. Puppies ARE an extreme amount of work. They are living, breathing, sentient beings who are full of sass and poor choices (it is true!). They may bark, whine, chew things, and have accidents in your home. They will test your patience. They require constant supervision, time, attention, rules, experiences, and our human assistance to help them reach their full potential. They are also a financial commitment; and you should not only consider the overall healthcare (vet expenses) of your puppy, but also the investment of supplies, food, professional training/classes, future boarding, the potential for insurance — and unknown expenditures popping up unexpectedly.


BEFORE bringing a puppy home:

  • Research appropriate breed choice for your lifestyle, environment, & goals — KNOW YOUR BREED! Read the standard and be familiar with the breed you are committing to.

  • Find a reputable and ethical breeder or rescue — KNOW YOUR BREEDER! Fancy websites, cute puppies, and someone trying to convince you to purchase a puppy is not what a responsible breeder will do. Most will come with a thorough contract and detailed information; one of which should include a clause in the rare instance for whatever reason, at whatever time, you are no longer able to keep the puppy or dog.

    • They breed their dogs to standard. Every breed has one. The standard is an inch by inch blueprint of what that breed should and should not be. An easy place to start is AKC.org or simply doing an internet search on the breed standard.

    • They health test their breeding stock.

      • Health testing goes beyond a vet telling you a dog is healthy or a breeder telling you their dogs are up to date on shots or come with a DNA test

        Breeders health test to ensure they are producing only the healthiest of dogs. Both mom and dad should be tested for a lengthy list of conditions prior to breeding to make sure that nothing unwanted will be passed on. Each breed has different health problems that they are genetically predisposed do, so health testing requirements are going to greatly vary on a breed by breed basis.

      • You can find which tests your breed needs by visiting the National breed club website. OFA.org is the overseeing registry of all health testing, and this is where you can find results. This is a public registry, all you need is a dog’s registration number or registered name to find their health testing results. IF A BREEDER DOES NOT HEALTH TEST THEIR DOGS, THAT IS NOT AN ETHICAL BREEDER. Run.

    • Titles their dogs in conformation showing as it allows them to have their stock evaluated for conformation, movement, and temperament.

    • Many breeds are also still expected to perform the tasks that they were originally bred for. Many working, sporting, and herding breeds will have additional performance titles

  • Finding a vet who is willing to get to know you and your puppy — get a health check right away! KNOW YOUR VET!

  • Setting up your household and having appropriate supplies on hand; puppy-proofing your household

  • Finding a reputable trainer BEFORE you bring the puppy home — training starts as soon as you get that puppy (really before if the breeder has done their job with proper neurological stimulation, socialization, etc.). Find someone who can assist you in setting up your household and go over the foundational steps of having a young puppy

  • Make sure the members of your household are on the same page and everyone is familiar with the rules! Consistency is incredibly important! If there are young children in the home, teaching appropriate interaction should be discussed BEFORE the puppy comes home. Children are not adults and should not be responsible for a puppy. They are an important part of the journey but they are learning what life is all about…just like the puppy!

Things to Think About

  • The foundation to your training should be engagement and relationship.

  • Keep your expectations fair and realistic

  • If you expect something, then expect it every time you ask for it

  • Think about treats in terms of ‘units of a reward’ for effort

  • Remember repetition, NOT duration. Five 1-minutes sessions can be better than one 5-minute session

  • Mark for action, feed for position

  • Name a perfect behavior, not an imperfect behavior. Get the quality you want before you tell the dog what it is called

  • Work on generalization to work on getting the behavior to happen in a variety of environments and situations

  • The challenge level should always be that in which your dog can succeed

  • Ask your dog what they are capable of doing. Do not over-face your dog

PUPPY TRAINING: WHERE TO START?

  • How does my puppy learn?

  • Understanding the types of rewards we can use

  • Hierarchy of rewards

  • Housebreaking

  • Crate training (driving in, settling & release cue — including in the car/new environments)

  • Addressing separation anxiety, attachment and independence/confidence

  • Socialization, exposure; sound surface, experiences & building positive associations

  • Exposure to noises and the real world/surface exposure

  • Touch sensitivity including collar grabs

  • Marker word/clicker training

  • Learning name, focus, engagement (including toy play)

  • Addressing jumping and how to prevent

  • Addressing play biting/mouthing and how to redirect

  • Understanding elements of distance, distraction, duration and working your dog through stimuli

  • Nutritional needs, chews, etc.

  • Recall and building value with handler/owner

  • Impulse control/leave it

  • Resource guarding/trading objects/"give"

  • Sits & downs (with stimuli)

  • Release cues

  • Hand touches & touching objects

  • Heeling & walking (including not pulling)

  • Stay

  • Shaping (sending to bed/mat)

  • Demand barking